Unit 3: Ring Making & Stone Setting
Objectives:
I can safely use the torch.
I can prepare my metal for soldering by cleaning and using flux.
I can construct a bezel setting
I can set a stone in metal.
I can understand how to clean metal after soldering
I can measure a ring band size
In Class Practice/Art Inspiration
Soldering
What is Solder?
solder- Used to adhere metal to each other. It is a combination of zinc and silver. The amount of zinc in the solder determines its melting point. When using multiple solder seams in one piece, you need to use different types of solder so old seams don't melt while making new ones.
TORCH SAFETY:
Always wear safety glasses
Tie hair back
Always point torch away from yourself
Make sure there is nothing flammable in soldering booth or near soldering pan
Make sure ventilation is on in soldering booth
Turn gas on from tank to tip and off from tip to tank
Types of solder:
Hard- Highest melting point, should be the first piece on a multi-solder piece that is soldered
Medium- mid level melting point, second piece after hard solder that should be used
Easy - Lowest melting point, the last piece that needs to be soldered should be with soft solder
Types of solder seams:
Butt soldered seam is when two pieces are soldered next to each other. Make sure both pieces of metal fit tightly.
Sweat soldered seam is when one piece of metal is soldered on top of another piece. Solder should go in between the two layers.
How to prepare your metal:
Saw, cut, file, and sand all pieces to 400g
Check the FIT of your metal. Are the two pieces lining up with no space or gaps?
Make sure everything is CLEAN- dirt and oil keep solder from flowing evenly on metal
Flux metal- flux will keep your metal clean and from oxidizing with heat. Paint flux on any exposed metal
Cut solder pieces and place them on the seam that you are soldering. Solder pieces should be TINY. You can tack them on using a little flux on the end of your brush.
PreparingforSolder.MOVMaterials:
Torch- A nozzle-like instrument attached to the gas tank that directs the flame.
Flux- comes from the Latin word ”flow”, and refers to the chemical that assist in the flow of solder by preventing the formation of oxide.
Solder- Used to adhere metal to each other. It is a combination of zinc and silver. The amount of zinc in the solder determines its melting point.
Third arm- A stand that holds a tweezer. It is used to elevate a piece while soldering. A ring is used in a third arm when solder the joint on the back.
Pickling solution- This is a strong chemical bath used to dissolve surface oxidation and flux residue from the metal’s surface.
(crock pot)
copper tongs- An instrument used for transporting hot metal to the pickling solution
Mandrel- Tools used to provide a surface against which a softer metal may be formed. The most common varieties are identified by names related to their sizes, as in bezel mandrel, ring mandrel, and bracelet mandrel.
Rawhide Mallet- A soft hammer used for forming metal.
Bezel- A rim of metal that surrounds and secures a stone. They may be of any size and can be either decorated or plain.
Bezel Rocker- The tool used to tighten the bezel around the stone.
Cabochon- A stone of any shape, often round or oval but it is flat on one side. Designed to sit flat into a bezel setting.
Skill Building & Practice Assignment
Practice Piece #1: Cabochon Pendant
Objectives:
Students will understand how a bezel holds a cabochon stone in place
Directions:
Find a photo to use for the pendant
Edit the photo to be the correct size
Cut it out
Glue it into the necklace bezel
Glue down the cabochon
Make into necklace and create clasps
*Pro Tip: 1" = 96 Pixles so you can measure your piece and calculate how big your image needs to be based on that.
Process:
Editing a Background Photo:
Directions:
Select an image you want behind your cabochon, in your pendant.
Resize the photo so that it fits the pendant size.
Insert it into the printing document **attached to the assignment in Google Classroom**
Setting the Image and Cabochon:
WAYY TO MUCH GLUE IN THIS PHOTO
Practice Piece #2: Bezel with Resin
Objectives:
Students will use resin to fill their bezel box
Students will learn to rock the bezel
Directions:
Fill with an image (Optional)
Fill with resin
Rock the bezel
Pouring a Resin "Bead" :
Directions for using resin:
Practice Piece #3: Simple Stone Setting Ring
Step 1: Finding your ring size
Step 2: Forming Ring Blank into a Round Ring
First you need to anneal your metal. Run the flame evenly over your ring blank until piece is glowing pink/orange. The metal does not need to be bright red, this could be a sign that your ring is about to melt! You do not need to use flux when annealing.
Place piece in pickle and then wash off in the sink.
Use the mandrel and rawhide hammer to form your ring and bend the two end closer and closer until they meet.
File ends (if necessary) until they meet together in a perfect seam.
Clean metal seam, flux, and cut one to two pieces of solder to place on the inside seam of the ring.
Solder, pickle, clean
Place ring on ring mandrel and hammer with rawhide mallet until formed.
Step 3: Soldering a Ring Band
SolderRIngBand.MOVMake sure the ends of your ring band fit together with no spaces or gaps.
Clean and flux the whole metal piece.
Cut a couple pieces of hard solder
Set ring up in the third arm
Place solder pieces on the inside of the band. Have the seam sitting at the lowest point so that the solder flows down through the seam.
Solder.
Step 4: Making a Bezel
Making a Bezel.mp4Size the bezel wire around your stone. It is better to have the bezel slightly too small than too big.
Get the bezel wire ends to fit together with no space or gaps, prepare for solder, and solder in the same way you soldered the ring.
Shape the bezel around the small mandrels and check that your stone fits into it. If your stone does not fit into it then you need to hammer the bezel bigger.
4. Sand the bezel down so that it is thinner
5. File the top edge of the bezel thinner
Step 5: Soldering the Bezel Box
1. Make sure solder surface is flat so that bezel rests with no spaces or gaps onto a piece of sheet metal
2. Clean both pieces
3. Flux
4. Cut small pieces of easy solder
5. Tack them to the ring alternating inside to outside of the bezel.
6. Solder
Video directions:
PreparingBezelForSolder.MOVFinishing the Bezel Box & Soldering it to Ring Band:
Cut extra metal from around your bezel with your saw frame.
File and smooth out the edges of your bezel box
Hold your ring band in the vice grips and file the top of the band flat
Prepare bezel box and ring band for solder
Set the bezel box upside down and the ring band on top of it, help up by the third arm. Solder pieces together.
Setting a Stone
Setting The Stone.mp4After your metal is cleaned up put a TINY amount of glue inside where the stone will go and place the stone inside the bezel
Use the bezel rocker to tighten your bezel around the stone
Use a mandrel and rawhide mallet to shape your ring.
Sand, buff, and polish your piece
Summative Assessment
Planning & Design
Leah K. 2023
Isaiah M. 2023
Ella H. 2024
